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April 24, 2004

Oakland, 1986

[The final stop of the Virtual Book Tour for Danyel Smith's first novel is right here on Umami Tsunami. Kevin asked me to write a personal essay about growing up in Oakland in the 80's. As I read Smith's book, I remembered more and more, although my experience was of course radically different from hers. Still, I think that's the interesting thing about Oakland - there are so many things to write about...]

Oakland, 1986

I can recognize, with a warm familiarity tightening my heart, threads of my Oakland in Danyel Smith's narrative; but the foundation of her Oakland might as well be another world. I might have been more familiar with hers if I had gone to Oakland Tech, just down Broadway, which at the time was one of the most dangerous schools in the state. Oakland in the 1980's was in a bad way, anyway. The Raiders had left, crack cocaine had come, and Reaganomics snuffed social programs. The folks living in what Smith calls the hills - the Oakland Hills, above Broadway, forested and packed with tasteful, quirky homes - got richer. That area's all gone now, devastated by the fire in 1991, and turned into the bland wealthy peach-colored neighborhood that exists now. Folks in the flatlands, on either side of Telegraph for example, or in West Oakland, or south of 580, got poorer. Neighborhoods crumbled. People crumbled.

But what was that to me? In 1986 I was in seventh grade. I lived in the hills, but I never felt rich. Of course we had some of the trappings of a comfortable upper-middle-class existence. French classes from second grade. Horse-back riding lessons. Summers in Japan. But I remember a constant anxiety about money hovering about the house like second-hand smoke. I felt lucky, not privileged.

In seventh grade I made a pact with my three best girlfriends. We were a posse, a pack, an exclusive clique so tight we couldn't really imagine one of us leaving or another joining. We had all read - and been deeply influenced by - Elfquest. So one night we all got together for a ritual. We lit a candle in the middle of the floor and sat at each compass point. Four girls, the power of four. We heated a small knife in the flame of the candle, and we passed it around to cut a small wound in our right thumbs. Then, one by one, we pressed our thumbs together. If we said words at this point, I've forgotten them. And then we revealed our soul names (we had already, naturally, revealed our elf names.) Fireleaf. Dawnstar. Strongoak. And I - who was I? I can't recall...

We used to do everything together then. Strongoak lived near the Claremont Hotel, in a large rambling wooden house with brown wooden shingles, nestled among thickly leaved trees. Her parents were professors at UC Berkeley. They were quite liberal, so we spent the night there often, in privacy and freedom. Danwnstar lived in El Cerrito on a sunny, cheerful block filled with plain-faced houses - her parents were Christian Scientists, which naturally meant that Dawnstar was the most flamboyantly wild of us all. Fireleaf lived in North Berkeley, in an apartment, with her mother, a school administrator. I spent the night there a lot, too, because of the cool, casual way her mother treated us - like we were adults, not children, just people to hang out with. There were oil paintings hanging in her house, portraits of Fireleaf and her older sister.

Sometimes, when we spent that night at Strongoak's house, we'd sneak out to the Claremont Hotel, which was just down the road. One time we ran through the hotel, filled with a sense of bravado and daring, stealing cutlery from the trays left out for room service, trying to see if we could crawl out the window in the hall and onto the famous cupola. But we chickened out - the roof was too steep and too high. But I remember well the exhilaration of leaning out of the window and looking down into the swimming pool below and thinking, I could do this.

Strongoak was the tastemaker. She always had older boyfriends. When she was thirteen she was seeing a twenty-three year old punk rocker. She had told him, naturally, that she was sixteen. We never - hardly ever - met these boys. We only reaped the benefits of their musical taste and their drug connections. Not that we did much. Some alcohol, of course, some pot.

One of the best places to go drinking was on the Berkeley campus, beautiful and silent at night. We walked through the grounds. The grass was always wet no matter how long the drought had been going on. We'd walk along Strawberry Creek to the biggest bridge that spanned it, which wasn’t very big. Underneath the bridge was the clubhouse. The bank was dry there, the water softly stirring at our feet, and a bottle of Jack Daniels waited in a friend's backpack. We passed it around. Afterwards we placed the empty bottle up on a beam of the bridge, alongside its fellows. It didn’t feel like littering, it was like - we were marking our territory. This is our space, and we belong here.

With BART and the buses we could get around to all the important places, the places we wanted to go. We'd walk to the Claremont Hotel to sneak into the swimming pool at night. We rode the bus to Berkeley, to Telegraph Avenue, which I thought was so vibrant, so exciting. It was such a treat to have a slice at Blondie's pizza - so much tastier then than now. We walked to Elmwood, where there was a small movie theatre and the best ice-cream place we knew of. Rockridge, right before it became completely overrun by yuppies, where we’d hang out at the Bohemian coffee shop that used to be called the Edible Complex and is now a bland Americanized creperie. Sometimes we'd take the BART into the city, get off downtown and walk around, or the Embarcadero. Golden Gate Park, the Panhandle. Of course, the Haight. But the city was too big for us, in a way - too much. Couldn’t get enough done in one day.

This was the beginning of my fashion consciousness, my identification of the holy trinity of music-clothing-cool. I wish Smith had written more specifically about music, because the songs of the time, more than anything else, evoke the era sweetly and sharply for me. Up until then I listened to Cindy Lauper, Madonna, and Bruce Springsteen pretty indiscriminately. In seventh grade I became a music snob. I discovered The Cure and The Smiths. I obsessed over Depeche Mode. I mocked Prince and the entire Jackson Clan as being far, far too pop. I would have died rather than admit I knew all the words to "Like a Virgin". I started to steal my dog's chain collars to wear as belts. I also stole my dad's white shirts, and ties, and wore them over ripped up jeans. 'You look like a beggar!' my mother would say in horror. I wore long bangs over my face and affected a sullen demeanor. I was so punk rock. Or maybe goth. I don’t know what I was. I was searching.

Sudden self-consciousness fell upon me after my first live show, which was The Cure at the Oakland Coliseum, on their Kiss Me Kiss Me Kiss Me tour. We all gathered at Strongoak's house to get ready. I'd never been to a concert before, I mean other than the symphony or chamber music. I didn't know what to expect. We got dressed carefully upstairs. I wore black pants and a long white shirt - my dad's shirt. I wished I had some cool jewelry. I think I had some silvery rings I'd picked up on Telegraph - or maybe that someone had given me? - and I put those on but for the most part I didn't wear much jewelry, ever, and still don't. We experimented for a while with makeup: black black eyeliner, dark red lips, pale pale face. But it didn't work on me. I didn't know how to use it, so I washed it off. I was pretty much a tomboy then, anyway. Didn't know anything about makeup or clothes or hair.

We were so excited. Someone's dad came to pick us up - we'd get a ride there, and then take BART home. I think it was probably all Strongoak's plan - she was like that. In retrospect, I wonder how my parents let me go. Did I talk them into it? Did I lie? Or perhaps they were more trusting of me than I remember sometimes.

We got there and flew out of the dad's car, barely waving him good bye. Of course it would have been so embarrassing if he had insisted on staying with us, to make sure we were safe. Or, heaven forbid, if he had come to the concert with us. But he was docile, and went away quietly after we slammed the car door shut.

The Coliseum I'd been to before - for a ball game? For some event? I can't remember - but it was totally transformed by the stage and the lights and the everything. We found our seats. Next to me was a couple in their forties, it seemed to me, and I remember thinking it so weird that old people would be there, alongside us pre-teens. Even stranger, they were sort of hippies. The guy had longish hair and an earring and a brightly patterned shirt. The woman had very long hair and a long purplish dress. Once the music started, though, I forgot all about them.

Once the music started, the world changed. The lights went dark and we couldn't see anything but the stage where our idol Robert Smith held court. I had a huge poster of him in my bedroom. I knew every line of his face intimately. And there he was, across a sea of dark heads. The music was so loud it seemed to beat at my soul deep inside my ribs. The guitars shimmered in the air around me, the drums pounded in my chest substituting for my heart. And his voice crooned over it all, so familiar and so reassuring and yet resonating with a timbre I'd never heard on a recording. Dimly I saw Dawnstar's face in the reflection of the stage lights, pale and utterly absorbed. She was dancing, making a sort of punching motion with her arms, her hands balled up into fists.

I had no idea how to dance, had never even thought about it before except in the abstract. Dancing wasn't something that happened to me. I remember scorning school dances, especially the dreaded and stultified slow dance. But right then, with the sounds coursing through me my body needed to move. Everyone else had stood up, we couldn't see. We stood on our chairs. And we danced like crazy. So that was when I danced for the first time, too, ecstatic and with my eyes closed and with no idea what I was doing or what I must have looked like.

My world had been so small - besides the four of us, I hadn't really met anyone else like us. And here, all around us in the dark, there were hundreds. Thousands, maybe. And we were all moving, feeling, the same, in tune to the same beat, even the hippies next to me.

But the best part, the very best part was riding the BART home afterwards. The trains were invaded with My Kind. I looked around proudly at the kids, some of them sitting nonchalantly and arrogantly on the floor, like they didn't care what anyone thought. Others were leaning on the poles. Boys with eyeliner, white shirts and black pants, girls looking like Siouxie Sioux in plaid minikirts, ripped fishnets and stomping big boots. Everyone was high from the music and the experience. These are my people, I thought. I belong here. I am this person who belongs here. Tonight, the train is ours, our mobile world, before we step off one by one and slink off into our separate, desperate existences, melt back into the night, into the city.

That was my Oakland, 1986. So different from Smith's dusty Oakland bounded by the number 40 bus and centered around Lake Merritt and pillared by parochial schools. Hers is a broken tale carefully mended by two sisters; mine is, I suppose, more like dancing. But Oakland is large, for such a small city. It contains multitudes.

posted by jane at April 24, 2004 02:24 PM | TrackBack
Comments

it's very interesting to read about how you remember your youth... about how you remember your first concert experience... if the names, dates, location, and band name were altered -- the cure to nine inch nails -- then this tale could have been my own.

i often forget just how much influence music has had on my life. it really shapes those who, for whatever reason, become music snobs. it's comforting, in a way, to think that many others have had similar experiences.

thankfully as we grow older it becomes easier and easier to bring "the mobile world" you describe closer and closer... it eventually just becomes your world. just you and your people. and that's the most comforting thing of all.

Posted by: ryan at April 24, 2004 04:34 PM

Wow, that's a pretty good description of how being with other people as a concert makes you feel a sense of community with others you wouldn't necessarily feel outside of being in the moment.

Posted by: Annalisa at April 24, 2004 07:35 PM

This is a beautiful memoir. I've always wondered how it would be to grow up here as an upper-middle class child in Berkeley/Oakland.

Thanks for sharing, Jane.

Posted by: C(h)ristine at April 24, 2004 08:41 PM

Thank you for the wonderful essay on growing up in Oakland in the 80's. It really brought back memories of hanging in Berkeley and Elmwood, bike rides in the hills and around Lake Merritt, seeing the Cure at Shoreline and driving lessons by the DMV off Telegraph.

Posted by: Ben at April 25, 2004 02:51 AM

Thanks for eloquently bringing back some cherished memories for me. I was a freshman at Cal in 1988, saw The Cure at Shoreline in 1989, lived in Rockridge from 1990-1992. (And played basketball with Jeff every week at the Jr. H.S. there by the BART station--man, he used to foul me every damn time I got the ball.) I walked the 2 miles to campus every day, just loving the diversity of people and shops and vibe along College Ave. Took the 51 bus on really rainy days (after the drought broke), but usually walking was faster anyway. I made mix tapes specifically for that sneaker commute, and occasionally I'd startle people by belting out Eurythmics, Depeche Mode, etc. It was a difficult time in my life, and the dark lyrics of alienation and loneliness often hit sharply home, but singing and striding through the multifarious bazaar from Bancroft Ave. to James St. made me feel like somewhere on that continuum was a place for me, and I was happy in those moments, joyous even. Even though it's changed quite a bit since then, whenever I get the chance to go back I feel like part of my spirit still lives there, stopping in at Noble Pies for a cornish pasty and inhaling deeply of the huge rose bush up the street before arriving home once again.

Posted by: JP at April 25, 2004 06:47 PM

Nice piece, Jane. It just struck me how young you are!

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